Guide Gault & Millau: an end to all the vanities

It was a foolhardy, and it is a hair’s width of success: A more complicated year as the “Annus horribilis coronalis” could have been Christoph Wirtz as the new editor-in-chief of the restaurant guide Gault & Millau for its premiere edition, not pick and choose. Only a few months between the two lock downs in the spring and the late autumn of remained to him and his Team to test the best Local of Germany, to preserve the Proven, and at the same time, radical innovations introduce.

Jakob Strobel y Serra

Deputy head of the cultural pages.

F. A. Z.

So are presented as in previous years, 1000 Restaurants, but only 500 points, because of Wirtz, the top restaurants, such as running a marathon is At the top of group they wanted to know the placement yet, you have the right to a stopwatch. But from one runner to the Counting get a little bit tiring, and it was also, significantly, whether a house twelve or 13 points have. In addition, the low point had to pay as a slap in the face for a cook, although the mere mention in the guide was an award.

From radically modern to zuexzellenter tavern food

Now, the assessment of 15 points starts during the second half of the Restaurants does not have any grading. There are recommendations in the case of all differences-the similarities are: Good craftsmanship, excellent product quality and an original concept are the criteria for the selection of this Local, the bandwidth of the radically modernized classic high cuisine “Emma Metzler” in Frankfurt on the excellent tavern food in the “Schneider Weisses Bräuhaus” in Munich, to the flawless Chinese noodle tradition of the “Bai Lu Noodles” in Cologne is sufficient. What is new is that top-name chefs for each city, a personal favourite places, with a range of Bars, ranges, stores, and snacks.

a great deal of attention and even greater discussions to ensure two timpani strokes in the new Gault & Millau: Christian Jürgens of the “Crossing” on the Tegernsee lake, and Klaus Erfort has been downgraded from a “Gästehaus Klaus Erfort” in Saarbrücken, Germany, are made of the highest category of 19.5 points to 19 points down. Jürgens superficially be accused of and repetitions, a Flagging of his creative force and Show-of deposits, such as “Hong Kong Crayfish Tea” is flavored in an apparatus such as in a chemistry laboratory, a river cancer on the table, with dozens of far Eastern flavours, and is ready cooked, which is highly amusing and a nice change in the menu. And if 19.5 points for a Multi-chefs like Tim Raue from Berlin, and Verdi are enter than Christian Jürgens is just as debatable – especially since Berlin is only a fractional part of the time at home, spends his colleague from lake Tegernsee, in his kitchen.

Smart, cautious modernizer: Andreas Krolik from “Lafleur” in Frankfurt : image: dpa

No discussions, there are the other representatives of the German world-class with 19.5 points. Torsten Michel of the “Schwarzwaldstube” in Baiersbronn, Joachim Wissler from the “Vendôme” in Bergisch-Gladbach, Christian construction of “Victor’s Fine Dining” in Perl on the Mosel, Sven Elverfeld from “Aqua” in Wolfsburg, Germany, and Clemens Rambichler from the “Waldhotel Sonnora” in Wittlich are beyond any doubt. The three new arrivals in the category of 19 points to show that the new Gault & Millau is a more conservative judgment and kitchens in the classic style of a radical avant-gardism prefers. Andreas Krolik from “Lafleur” in Frankfurt, Hendrik Otto of the “Lorenz Adlon esszimmer” in Berlin and Thomas Schanz from the “Schanz” in Piesport for the restaurant guide is also the chef of the year, are not a Revolutionary at the stove, but a wise, cautious modernizer. The three are now in the best company of Claus-Peter Lumpp (“Bareiss”, Baiersbronn), Michael Kempf, and Joachim Gerner (“Facil”, Berlin), Christoph Rüffer (“Haerlin”, Hamburg, Germany), Kevin Fehling (“The Table”, Hamburg, Germany), Peter Maria Schnurr (“Falco” in Leipzig) and Jan Hartwig (“Studio”, Munich, Germany).

Living the total work of art, cooking, music undLiteratur

all the other awards from the Gault & Millau have been Retained. Newcomer of the year, the highly-talented Matteo Ferrantino from the “Bianc” in the port of Hamburg-City, as a restaurateur of the year, Vincent Klink of “Wieland height” in Stuttgart will be honored as a living work of art from cooking, music, literature, and Humor. Sommelier of the year is Nancy tall man from the “Rutz” in Berlin, the pastry chef of the year Hannes Radeck from the “Ox & Klee” in Cologne, Germany, discovery of the year Max Goldberg from “Oxalis”, the cook in the middle of the black forest in Japanese. And for his life’s work was completely Hans Haas deserves to be awarded.

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