It’s still dark outside, it’s so early. Billy sees the father in the shadow of the flames. Watch him, admire him. See him stirring the pot with the big paddle. How he turns rind, stomach and shoulder into carnitas. Just like his father let the rind, pig’s stomach and shoulder become Carnitas. Billy, the youngest of eight children, or as the father says, his “last breath”, looks on, wants to help. When he holds the paddle in his hands for the first time, he knows that this is his destiny. Many, many tacos have crossed the street food counter since then. Many tragedies have been experienced and also survived. And Billy the Kid has become Billy the Chef. But not just any. He can call himself the boss of the best taco stand in all of Los Angeles. In the new Netflix docuseries Street Food USA, he shares how the Acosta family went from illegal Mexican immigrants who cooked to survive to becoming the City of Angels’ gastro icon with their “Carnitas El Momo.”
Whether it’s Filipino skewers from the grill or Guatemalan churrasco from the shopping trolley, pizza or hot dogs – “Streetfood USA” shows what America’s streets have to offer in culinary terms. In each of the six episodes, the documentary series takes on a different culinary stronghold in the country. It’s a foray through Los Angeles to Portland, New York and New Orleans, Oahu to Miami. The spotlight is on the special, the details. The heart of each episode is the story of a main character. It’s about food, but mostly about the American Dream. About Kiauna “Kee” Nelson, who was in jail before she took her food truck onto the street, or about Thuy Pham, who came to the United States as a boat refugee. They tell of origin and culture, family and solidarity. It’s about the fight to get there and the fight for every dollar. The protagonists not only allow themselves to be looked into the cooking pot, but into their hearts.
For example, when BIlly can be seen with his father Momo. Momo, who finally wanted to live after the hardships of a hard working life, wanted to travel. After his son took over the “Carnitas” scepter, he first suffered a stroke and then a heart attack. Momo, who works out with Billy with rubber bands to regain his strength. The rubber band is a symbol of the close bond between father and son, a bond between generations. One that also connects Mexico and the USA.
“I just graduated from high school, didn’t go to college. That’s about all I can do,” says Billy. “Carnitas El Momo” stands for culture, passion, family, love, friends. “That’s what it’s about,” says Billy. “I don’t want that to die out.” He loves his job. But at the end of the day, it’s about telling the story of his family. It’s a success story. And then he sits there, this bear of a man and the tears flow.
