It’s not every day that a spread makes it into the lyrics of a world hit. Vegemite succeeded in this. “He just smiled and gave me a Vegemite sandwich,” says the Australian anthem “Down Under” by the band Men At Work. The song is a declaration of love to the fifth continent and one of its most iconic foods. Because most “Aussies” are very fond of the black-brown paste, which is celebrating its 100th birthday this year. Elsewhere, the enthusiasm tends to cause perplexity.
Malty, salty and also a bit bitter, Vegemite sits in the mouth with its thick texture. The specialty belongs to the red continent like kangaroos, the outback or Kylie Minogue. “People have a love affair with Vegemite – and even if you don’t like it, you still love it!” says Jamie Callister of the German Press Agency. His grandfather, Cyril Percy Callister, had developed Vegemite in 1922. The 62-year-old published a book about his grandfather and his invention ten years ago: “The Man Who Invented Vegemite: The True Story Behind an Australian Icon”.
The beginning wasn’t easy: “When it first rolled off the assembly line, it was an absolute flop. Even the head salesman couldn’t stand the smell, let alone the taste,” says Jamie Callister. Many non-Australians trying Vegemite for the first time feel the same way. With one exception: the British are just as proud of their Vegemite predecessor “Marmite”. Both spreads are brewer’s yeast extracts and taste similar.
The Australians have only slowly discovered their love for the spread, which is advertised today with the slogan “Tastes like Australia”. When Cyril Callister developed Vegemite for the Fred Walker Company in 1922, he was also subsequently involved in another product that was revolutionary at the time: processed cheese. “As Vegemite languished, the cheese grew in popularity – and that’s how Vegemite got a foot in the door. Otherwise, it probably would have gone under,” says the grandson.
A marketing trick finally saved the spread: The Fred Walker Company gave a small glass of Vegemite for free with every processed cheese sold. And since the 1930s were also marked by the global economic crisis in Australia, people lived frugally and did not waste food. Another advantage: Neither processed cheese nor Vegemite need to be refrigerated – and refrigerators only became popular “down under” in the 1950s.
The exact recipe of Vegemite is a closely guarded secret. One thing is certain: It is made from yeast that remains after the beer has been brewed. It also contains malt, salt, vegetable extract and a particularly large number of B vitamins, which are not only good for the brain but also reduce fatigue, stress and the risk of heart disease. Anyone who is pregnant or wants to become pregnant should also use Vegemite: The vitamin B3 contributes to the healthy development of the embryo and has been shown to reduce miscarriages and birth defects.
It was precisely these health aspects that ensured that Vegemite was officially recommended by the British Medical Association and other medical professionals in 1939. The Australian army also relied on Vegemite during World War II and bought the spread in such large quantities that at times only one jar per head could be sold in the supermarkets.
Vegemite’s path from a pungent-smelling flop to a beloved product was complete: in 1942, 20 years after its development, the product could be found in most Australian pantries. A successful advertising campaign in the 1950s spawned the “Happy little Vegemites” jingle, making the product even more popular. Some call the song Australia’s second unofficial national anthem.
Today, Australians even take their beloved Vegemite with them on vacation. Politicians also like to have it in their luggage, such as the then Australian Foreign Minister Kevin Rudd on a trip to the USA in 2011. He then had to convince the American security officials at the airport that the dark paste was not dangerous goods.
Everyone has their own “Vegemite story,” says Callister. And how is the paste eaten? He himself simply relies on a slice of fresh sourdough bread with butter and Vegemite. But there are also recipes for Vegemite cheesecake or Vegemite-crusted pork roast on the internet. Some restaurants even offer Vegemite fried chicken, Vegemite ice cream, and Vegemite martinis.
Just in time for the 100th anniversary, a small pop-up museum has opened in Cyril Callister’s birthplace Beaufort. Here visitors can immerse themselves in the history of Vegemite and the inventor’s life. “There is great interest,” said Liza Robinson of the German Press Agency. She is the executive secretary of the Cyril Callister Foundation, founded in 2019 by his grandson.
“When visitors come to the museum, they tell their own Vegemite stories,” says Liza Robinson. “It’s either about the grandma who gave them Vegemite as a kid, or the parents and the lunches. And they’re so passionate about it! People don’t talk about any other food like Vegemite.”
To give the spread a permanent home in Australia, the foundation plans to set up a permanent museum and café featuring Vegemite creations – a gathering place for all fans of the yeast extract. As Jamie Callister puts it, “Vegemite isn’t just my story, it’s our story.”
