Founded in 2020 in the midst of a global pandemic, Geneva Watch Days takes the form of a multi-brand watch fair – mostly independent – which defines itself as “decentralized and self-managed”, under the aegis of the city and canton of Geneva. The concept, which every year since its creation has met with certain success despite the skepticism of many at the time, is based on three pillars. On the one hand, a decentralization of places where watch collections are exhibited (large hotels, boutiques, factories and a vast tent erected on the Quai du Mont-Blanc). On the other hand, parallel digitization in order to share information with the whole world. Finally, an opening to the public.
Alongside standard bearers such as Bulgari, Breitling, Girard-Perregaux or Ulysse Nardin, we also note the presence of brands such as Doxa, HYT, Laurent Ferrier, Ressence or Reservoir. Having become an unmissable event for the new watchmaking season, the show, which only featured 17 brands in 2020, brought together 39 this year. The latter unveiled the first batches of new watches for the coming watchmaking year, all of a wide variety, in all styles and at all prices. As for the organizing committee, the results are good: the event attracted nearly 1,500 professionals from the sector, including 600 media and 300 retailers from all over the world, not to mention the 8,000 visitors from the general public who came to admire the most beautiful pieces of the start of the school year. There is no doubt that in 2024, the organizers will therefore return for a fifth edition in order to install this relaxed fair of fine Swiss watchmaking a little more in the watchmaking calendar.
Frédérique Constant is celebrating its 35th anniversary this year. Since its inception, the house has been at the forefront of research in mechanical watchmaking, quickly launching an assault on complications, such as the creation of numerous high-flying calibres. At the Geneva Watch Days, the house unveiled its 31st in-house movement: the FC-735. The latter is housed in a new reference, the Classic Power Réserve Big Date Manufacture. For its anniversary, the firm has seen things big and is offering various versions of its novelty. There are two steel options, delivered with a blue or white dial while the pink gold one (and limited to 350 copies) has an anthracite gray dial. This, without forgetting the prestigious piece (limited to 35 opuses) fashioned in platinum and displaying a navy blue meteorite dial. The watches are all adorned with a 40 mm case and powered by the FC-735 caliber embellished with circular graining and Côtes de Genève decorations. The movement combines three complications: a large date display, a moon phase and a power reserve indicator (50 hours).
The Girard-Perregaux Manufacture has presented the latest iteration of the iconic Laureato: the Absolute Chronograph 8Tech. Since 2019 and the launch of the Laureato Absolute collection, we know the brand’s desire to bring ever more innovative materials into its watches. Here, the 44mm chronograph was made from 8Tech, a carbon-titanium composite material whose thin layers overlap to create a unique shape. The whole is completed by a minimalist gradient gray dial on which stand out three sandblasted sub-dials as well as a date window at 4:30. The watch is powered by an in-house self-winding movement with a 46-hour power reserve. The same that fitted the previous Absolute.
On the occasion of the show, Oris decided to (re)dive into the abyss. The independent house from Hölstein has launched its AquisPro 4000m. In other words, the most water resistant diver ever produced by the brand. Probably intended for professionals in the depths or (very seasoned) amateurs of scuba diving, the tool watch has a large titanium case 49.5 mm in diameter and 23.4 mm thick, a size that fits perfectly on a wetsuit. The watchmaker’s submarine, water-resistant to 4,000 m, has a graduated and patented blue ceramic bezel as well as a gradient blue dial with a wave pattern. It beats to the rhythm of the now famous automatic caliber 400 which offers 5 days of power reserve, non-magnetic properties and an accuracy of -3/5 seconds per day. In immersion !
Renowned for his micromechanical jewelry, Laurent Ferrier cut his teeth at Patek Philippe. Something that insiders know well and recognize in the simple, technical and luxurious pieces offered by the native of Neuchâtel. In addition to watchmaking, the latter is also a motor racing enthusiast, having participated seven times in the 24 Hours of Le Mans. The former driver is now returning to his passion of yesteryear with a new Sport Auto 40 Serie Atelier watch. Unsurprisingly, the model has its roots in racing history and pays direct homage to the #40 Porsche 935 Turbo driven at Le Mans by Laurent Ferrier in 1979 (it took third place overall at the time). The aerodynamically curved tonneau case in grade 5 titanium of 41.5 mm with integrated bracelet is completed by a dial echoing the bright colors of the racing car. Beneath the domed sapphire crystal, there are notes of degraded viridian green with an opaline finish and semi-gloss lacquer. At 6 o’clock sits the opaline white sub-dial of the small seconds while a chamfered date window opens at 3 o’clock. Under the hood, beats an automatic micro-rotor movement with meticulous finishes and delivering 72 hours of power reserve.
For its part, the Belgian brand Ressence, appreciated for its original designs and its refined representation of time through rotating dials, is launching a new horological UFO: the Type 3 EE. The principle does not change. We find a watch devoid of hands, these being replaced by discs which turn on themselves via a module developed by Ressence and which displays the hours on an inner dial, the minutes on the outer track, the month and the day of the week. The latter also includes an oil compartment allowing a magnifying effect of the dial information then projected and printed on the surface of the sapphire crystal, which ensures perfect readability. And since variations in oil temperature affect the integrity of the watch, Ressence added a gauge to the dial. Also new is a new eucalyptus green dial color, which gives the model a polished pebble look.
