The history of art criticism – whether in the field of literature, music, or of the wine – fly is full of the carcasses of one-day the have no existence, or duration. It accompanies the chronicler, when he brings a new name to the game of extraordinary services, but the hope of this performance may be not have been unique, but an earlier proof of a great Talent.
this time Last year I recommended you to visit Carsten hall guard from Ingelheim on the Rhine, or to try at least one of its Burgundy or Silvaner from Old vines. I had met the hall of guardians in the case of one of his teachers, Hanspeter Ziereisen in the Markgräflerland, in the case of a midnight feast. A short time later I visited the now 27-Year-old and was impressed by his winemaker skills, his visions and the projects that he had already taken in the attack. The results were still outstanding, but Good wine takes time.
A rising icon
Now the hall of guardians has presented the 2018er Silvaner Grey stone, a wine that is one of the Best I’ve tasted in 20 years of this once much more common variety, and the need to shy away from any comparison with much more expensive French Burgundy wines. Expanded hall guardian of his 48-year-old vine stem white premium wine as a Grand Cru from Burgundy: the early, ripe grapes, with a screw press for about a day and a half long-pressed, the process Must, with natural yeasts, fermented, and then for one and a half years, with a 450-Liter barrel.
With Brioche and flint notes on the nose this is a full-bodied, fresh and silky Silvaner wines with great complexity, precision, and Finesse. He exudes energy and sophistication, and the long yeast storage lends it distinguished elegance. This is not a fruity-“delicious” Silvaner, but a large, sustainable, structured white wine for fish dishes from the star kitchen. It is rar (562 bottles) and costs a reasonable 55 to 57 Euro (gute-weine.de, viniculture.de). That’s a lot of money, but you receive the level of great French Burgundy.
the hall of guardians is not a flash in the pan, but a growing icon of the young generation of Winemakers. The 2018er White Burgundy (21,50 euros) proves. A Chablis 1er Cru is equal, this elegant wine is tremendously clear, precise and annoying, with mineral drama and the expression of the 30-year-old vines on the limestone soils of the exposed stone field.
