Jacobs stated in the program notes that he hoped to share a moment of inspiration and curiosity through the physicality of this shared event. The collection was a dazzling parade of puffers and space-age sequins inspired by op art, and held under the majestic arches of New York Public Library’s main branch.
Jacobs is known for his creative shows that close New York Fashion Week with a burst of creativity. He decided not to wait until September to return to the next edition and launched this collection in the heat of Manhattan’s summer after having missed two seasons due to the pandemic. He treated his fans and passersby with a special treat on a hot evening: His show was simultaneously projected onto the façade of Bergdorf Goodman (15 blocks up Fifth Avenue), where it will be sold only.
The clothes were a mix of puffer jackets and coats in black and white stripes, some sliding along the floor like ballgowns on a ski hill — and large, bright round sequins that were emblazoned on long skirts and dresses, sometimes with trousers underneath. It was like a winter wonderland mixed with glamorous red carpet.
Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber and other models wore knit hoods with brims or caps, with braids at the back. They also wore black platform shoes in chunky, chunky style. One of them fell off her feet during the show. (An ingenious model gave the shoe a kick up the side of runway.
The puffer theme was wildly creative. There were puffer collars that wrapped around the neck and reached up to the ears, as well as puffer stoles that wrapped around the shoulders. A series of brightly-colored garments in yellow, pink, purple, and sunshine yellow closed the show. It is possible to imagine that they are a nod towards the designer’s mood. His program notes started with the word “Happiness”.
Jacobs wrote, “On the return to doing what we love, in the aftermath of immeasurable loss and loneliness, fear, worry, anxiety, and uncertainty, I am reminded why creativity is so essential to our existence, life.”
He explained that the company’s decision not to participate in the pandemic season, when many labels used digital presentations, allowed them to “reflect, ruminate and reevaluate, grieve, and take a comprehensive inventory of what works and what doesn’t work, our love, and what is worth keeping and what has meaning, value, importance, and meaning.”
Jacobs stated that in-person shows are what work. Jacobs wrote, “While the world is changing at an unimaginable pace, my love of fashion, the desire for creating and sharing collections through this delivery method — the runway — lasts.”
Some of the outfits were so extravagantly voluminous that they touched the feet of spectators. This was a crucial sign that the presentation was not digital.
