The tires are one of the most important components on a bicycle: They make contact with the ground and determine riding comfort, safety and efficiency. Everything about model selection and care.
They are often neglected to the point of cracking. At the same time, cyclists cannot really pay enough attention to the tyres. They are the only component on the bike that provides traction.
And depending on the usage scenario, the bicycle tire can even replace full suspension. “On an area much smaller than a postcard, it transmits braking force and acceleration energy and countless tiny steering impulses – with every ride,” says Thomas Geisler from the press service bicycle (PD-F) in Göttingen. Useful information in five chapters:
1. The tire types
According to the General German Bicycle Club (ADFC), wire tires, also known as clinchers, are the most widespread. Their name refers to a metal wire that is incorporated into the bead. The wire holds the carcass – i.e. the base fabric – on a U-shaped rim, explains Geisler. This base fabric carries the rubber layer on the tread and on the sidewalls of the tire.
There is usually a puncture protection belt made of Kevlar or special rubber between the rubber and the fabric. “But these tires are not as “unflatable” as some advertisements promise,” writes Stiftung Warentest on its website. They are not protected against punctures or tears from the side and signs of wear.
Robust tubes and “tubeless” tires
Hoses vary in robustness: They are most commonly made from synthetic rubber (butyl). It holds the air better than hoses made of natural rubber (latex). Latex hoses are lighter and have a lower rolling resistance.
While common tires always have a tube, there are also “tubeless” tires – recently popular on mountain and gravel bikes. They are also on the rise in cycling. For example, the 2021 Tour de France was won with tubeless tires. In order to stay tight, the tires need special rims with an airtight rim base. That’s more expensive. Assembly is also more difficult. A special sealing milk must be filled in via the valve. It closes smaller tears or holes again immediately.
Folding tires, tubular tires and extreme tires
Tubular tires are less common in everyday life. With them, the tube is sewn into the carcass, and this construction is glued into the rim well with tire tape. They are mainly used in cycling because they are lighter than clincher tires.
A variant with a separate tube are folding tires. They also weigh less than clincher tires and are more expensive. But you can stow them in your bike luggage to save space, says Geisler.
2. The tire width
Bicycle tires come in many widths: cyclists sometimes ride with tires that are only 20 millimeters wide, although the trend in cycling is also towards wider tyres.
According to Roland Huhn from the ADFC, the widths of sporty gravel bikes or comfortable everyday bikes are sometimes over 60 millimeters. Fatbike extreme tires are twice as wide – for optimal traction on loose ground such as sand.
3. The tire pressure
“Finding the right tire pressure is a science in itself, especially in the sporting arena,” says Geisler. Since the air pressure influences driving behavior, athletes are particularly interested in it. Everyday cyclists often neglect it, although tires that are too flat cause the coats to age quickly. The result: small cracks.
“If you drive below the minimum value, you damage the tyre, the tube and the rim and you can fall badly,” says the ADAC. Regular pumping helps to prevent tire wear. On the other hand, if the pressure is permanently too high, the tire can burst.
So you shouldn’t wait until the spring check to check whether the tire is still tight enough. The coat should also be checked regularly – for small intruders in the tread. “The opposite is widespread: Pump up your tires a few times a year and only think about the tire pressure again when it has dropped far below the minimum,” says Huhn from the ADFC.
Tip: The minimum and maximum permissible tire pressure is given on the sidewalls of bicycle tires as a guide – in the units bar and psi. According to ADAC, up to 1 bar of air can escape per month.
Measure and correct tire pressure
A floor pump with a manometer, i.e. with a pressure display, is suitable for measuring the pressure. Technology nerds can also attach a tire pressure sensor to the valve – and thus keep an eye on the pressure and tire temperature via a bicycle display or a mobile phone app. The thumb test is rather unsuitable: “Differences in pressure can hardly be felt above 2 bar,” says Roland Huhn.
The basic rule is: the thinner the tire, the higher the air pressure should be – racing cyclists ride on level paths and asphalt with up to eight bar in order to achieve the lowest possible rolling resistance with optimal grip.
Less air in the tires makes sense on forest, field or gravel paths: “The low pressure ensures a lot of suspension comfort,” says Huhn. This could even make special spring elements superfluous.
4. The tire profile
The nature of the rubber on the tire also plays an important role in parameters such as adhesion, rolling resistance and grip. Experts roughly differentiated between road tires and off-road tires. An extreme form are completely treadless tires, called slicks. They offer the best compromise between the best possible grip and low rolling resistance on firm, slippery roads.
The opposite of this are mountain bike tires with coarse lugs. They ensure good grip on soft ground and in curves. “In addition, they must be able to cope with steep climbs without the rear wheels spinning,” says Geisler.
The best of both worlds – smooth tread and side lugs
Tires with a mixed profile and special rubber expand the range of use. Gravel bikes are an example of this. Road bikes for rough terrain should be fast, but also offer grip on gravel. The treads of their tires are provided with low-friction scales or a lamellar structure. The profile on the outer edges provides extra traction – i.e. more pulling power. According to the ADFC, tires with a rather smooth tread in combination with side lugs are also better suited for touring bikes.
There are no regulations for the tread depth on bicycles – unlike on cars or motorcycles. However, some tires have a directional profile. An arrow and the word “rotation” on the flank indicate this. In order not to impair the promised performance, you should take this into account when fitting the tyres.
5. The winter tire
There are winter tires not only for cars, but also for bicycles. With one crucial difference: Spikes are allowed on bikes in this country – unlike on cars. The small metal pins should prevent slipping, especially on ice and solid snow cover. “It works best with minimum air pressure, since most of the spikes are in contact with the ground at the same time,” says Geisler. In case of doubt, this also shortens some braking distances. With tires without pins, the reduced air pressure also improves traction.
Disadvantages of spikes: If the road is free of ice, there is driving noise and rolling resistance increases. In addition, it is cumbersome to put on new tires for the winter season.
Skins or all-weather tires
Tire covers, which a Norwegian company has patented, are said to be more practical: A second outer skin is attached to a base tire with a zipper. Such skins are also available for winter use.
If you ride your bike all year round, you can also opt for a more common alternative: all-season tires. Due to a special lamella profile and a softer rubber compound, they promise more grip even when the temperature is below zero. “Normal bicycle tires, on the other hand, harden in colder temperatures, which leads to a loss of traction,” says Geisler. All-weather tires often also have better puncture protection – “a factor that should not be underestimated, especially on bike paths and lanes that are covered with loose gravel, in order to prevent a flat tire.”
Tips for winter storage
Storing your bike in winter can prevent damage. It is ideal if the bike is hanging. This protects the sidewalls of the tires. If the wheel is stationary, the tire should have enough air.
Proper care promotes a long tire life. For tires with puncture protection, manufacturers sometimes specify mileages of over 10,000 kilometers. Such tires are available from around 25 euros, while other bicycle tires start at around 15 euros, according to PD-F f. Tires don’t cost much less in the hardware store – although with a limited selection you don’t really know what you can get in terms of quality.
Pedelecs, also known as e-bikes, are often built more robustly. And due to the motor and battery, they are heavier than normal bicycles – according to ADAC, the additional weight can be between five and ten kilograms. The tires are correspondingly more loaded. So they should also be more robust and wider – and their tire pressure should be correspondingly higher. The ADAC offers a corresponding online tire pressure table with recommended values.
Special pedelec tires make sense simply because the acceleration and braking forces are usually higher with electrified bicycles, explains Tomas Geisler from the Fahrrad press service. Manufacturers label tires for pedelecs with designations such as “E-Bike Ready”.
The fast S-Pedelecs, which support up to 45 kilometers per hour and are legally considered motor vehicles, require tires in Europe that comply with ECE-R75 approval. You can recognize them by the designation “E-Bike Ready 45”.
